Rayon is a misunderstood and often underrated material. Often misidentified as an ‘artificial’ cloth alongside polyester and nylon, it has a much older and more organic origin than its petrochemical cousins.
As early as the 17th century, scientists sought to emulate the unique properties of the silkworm’s secretions, with English physicist Robert Hooke positing that cellulose gum derived from wood pulp might be woven to similar effect. It wasn’t until 1884 however that the magnificently monikered Count Hilaire de Chadonnet, “the Godfather of Rayon’ , was able to refine the process in a practical manner and on an industrial scale, and ‘wood silk’ or ‘artificial silk’ was born.
Originally intended for furnishings and womenswear; Rayon has all the drape and soft handle of silk, but unlike the later invention of polyester it retains breathability and remains cool in dry hot conditions.
These properties made it popular all over Asia in the early 20th century. Innovation continued and in 1951, the Japanese refined ‘Modal’ rayon from birch and oak. This made for a notably softer and more luxe handle emulating the look and feel of heavier matte silks. Coinciding with the post war market for ‘leisurewear’, rayon became the de facto choice for men’s casual shirts. Silk had always been the cloth for the wealthy, but now rayon brought a little glamour to the masses - affordable, practical and above all luxurious. Western shirts with pearl snaps, Aloha souvenir shirts with their Pacific Islander patterns, panelled Gauchos, and camp collared “gabs” presented in pops of bright colour reflected the individualistic flair of Atomic Age design.
Something of that post-war glamour thankfully still resides in the heart of London’s Soho. Tucked beside the chain pubs and flagship stores a little of what made the area so famous in the mid century still clings to life. The unmarked dive bars in dingy basements. The old Italian restaurants with straw covered bottles of Chianti on red and white checked table cloths. These are the same backstreets the Spivs, Teddyboys and ‘Modernists’ strutted their stuff like characters in a Colin MacInnes novel. The drab greyness of ration-bound Britain was suddenly lit up by neon - a little too flash, a little ostentatious, but undeniably optimistic and fun. The Rayon shirt is the perfect embodiment of this attitude.
Just like the Bryceland’s boys on a night out, you can’t deny it: You look so money.
