893 Bootcut - Kimberley Lawton
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The 133s - Left-hand Twill Denim
The 133s - Left-hand Twill Denim
Denim, there is a lot to choose from. For such a simple, utilitarian item, the choices in denim, cut, fit and wearability are seemingly endless - and to be honest, can be a little intimidating.
Jeans are a personal thing. They should feel like a second skin. Worn carelessly without too much thought, but always look great, as if they are yours and always have been. A well-faded, ‘lived-in’ pair always look right; familiar and relaxed.
Our original 133, the first Bryceland’s denim, was made with the mindset of this being the everyday denim which ticks all the boxes, while being true to the cut and fit of the pre & post war 5-pocket ‘waist-overall’ style; with a mid-high rise and full fit through the leg, boxy and classic. A real working jean.
With so much choice in denim, for AW ’23 to add to our denim cannon, while keeping it simple, we wanted to produce an updated cut of the 133 with a slightly slimmer, genteel silhouette, but retaining all the key details and fit of the original.
The 133s, rather than drawing from the working blues of the 30s & 40s, we use the same block as our 933 and 433, a decidedly more directional approach to denim seen from the 60s onward. Where the black 933 is punk & rock’n’roll, the 133s is cowboy and ivy; comfortably slim, elongating the leg through a subtle taper from the knee.
To place the fit of the 133s, think of the romanticised & idyllic drawn advertising images from the 1950s of cowboys leaning on fences or moseying back to the ranch, saddle in hand, boots on foot. Or students striding through an Ivy League campus, white socks, loafers; Antony Perkins lounging at home, or Chet Baker playing trumpet in Lucca, perched in a windowsill.
For the denim, we have opted for a left-hand twill, differing from the more common right-hand twill in the direction of the weave. The left-hand twill being tighter and more stable in construction; shrinking a little less, and softening substantially with wear leaving a slightly sueded hand-feel once lived in for long enough.
The fit, though slimmer from the knee has the same comfortable top-block with room through the thigh in all sizes, and pockets for putting stuff in.
By Ben Chamberlain